Nuwara Eliya, nestled in the central highlands of Sri Lanka, was my destination as I embarked on a solo adventure. Its name, meaning “City of Light,” perfectly captured the essence of this enchanting town. Perched at an elevation of 1,868 meters above sea level, the air was refreshingly cool throughout the year, ranging from 10 to 20 degrees Celsius. It was indeed the coldest place in Sri Lanka, an ideal environment for cultivating tea, especially the renowned Ceylon Tea. As a self-professed tea lover, visiting this city felt like entering paradise. Witnessing the birthplace of tea, coupled with the captivating atmosphere, made Nuwara Eliya the ultimate highlight of my Sri Lankan trip.
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Initially, I had planned to travel to this town by taking a bus from Kandy in the morning, around 6AM, aiming to arrive here by 10 o’clock. However, after chatting with the owner of Charlton Kandy Rest, where I stayed in the city of Kandy yesterday, they suggested taking the train from Kandy to Nanu Oya and then hopping on a bus to Nuwara Eliya, which would take an additional 15 minutes. They assured me that it would be a better option, despite the slight delay in train departure (the train left a little after 8AM). The allure of the breathtaking views along the railway was something not to be missed, they emphasized. Hearing that, my curiosity sparked, and I immediately made up my mind to follow the local’s advice and switch to the train.
Today, I woke up around 6.30AM to freshen up, take a quick shower, and pack my belongings before heading to the train station in the city of Kandy, which was just a 15-minute walk from my hotel. However, I had to be careful while walking because in the early morning, the streets were bustling with people going to work and children heading to school, resulting in heavy traffic. I arrived at the train station around 7.30AM and made my way to the ticket counter, where there were a few foreigners ahead of me, about four or five people. I assumed we all had the same destination in mind. When it was my turn at the counter, I informed the officer that I wanted to get off at Nanu Oya. The officer handed me a ticket and stamped it while mentioning the price of 160 LKR (approximately 1.20 USD). The tickets here were of the “manual” system, without the use of computers. They were torn from a booklet and stamped with the date, giving them a nostalgic and antique feel. People over the age of 25, like me, might remember using such tickets. (Oops!… I’m not that old, really.)
Kandy Railway Station
The ticket counters
The train ticket to Nana Ola
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I glanced at the time and realized it was not 8AM yet. The train was scheduled to depart around 8.42AM, giving me some time to find breakfast and explore the market area around the train station (the train station was adjacent to the Kandy Bus Station where I had arrived yesterday). I had approximately one hour before the train’s departure. However, the train system here didn’t have online tickets available, so I had to go to the station to purchase them.
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The train time schedule
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I leisurely strolled around and reached the train just in time. The train tickets here didn’t specify seat numbers; it was first come, first served. Those who boarded early got a seat, while the latecomers had to stand. As for me, I wandered around, capturing photos and exploring. In the end, I couldn’t board on time and had to stand, following the regulations (but it didn’t take long until I got a seat since it was a commuter train with frequent stops, and there were people getting on and off. Seats became available soon enough). Most of the passengers were locals, interspersed with Chinese and Western tourists. The train had fans but no air conditioning since it was a local train. It stopped for only 5 minutes and then departed on time. The scenery on both sides was a combination of forests and alternating hills, incredibly beautiful and naturally captivating. The farther the train traveled from Kandy towards Nanu Oya, the higher the elevation, and the more stunning the mountain and forest views became. Even though there were seats, I barely sat down as I was constantly getting up to capture pictures. Throughout the 4-hour train journey, there was never a dull moment, I must admit.
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In front of Nano Oya Station
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The train arrived at Nanu Oya Station right on schedule, at 12.40PM. The weather here was pleasantly cool, not exceeding 20 degrees Celsius. I put on a jacket to keep warm, and it was just perfect. This station wasn’t located in Nuwara Eliya town, as I mentioned earlier. I had to take another ride for about 10 kilometers (around 15 minutes) to get there. As I walked out in front of the train station, I saw a line of tuk-tuks parked, and several drivers approached me asking, “Where are you going? Are you heading to Nuwara Eliya?” (I understood that this town must be the main destination for passengers getting off at this train station). I compared the prices, and they were all the same, 600 LKR (approximately 5 USD). It seemed reasonable, so I agreed without hesitation. On the way, the driver proudly showed me a notebook where travelers who had used his service wrote their names and countries. He showed me that there had been a few other Thai tourists who had used his service in the past few weeks. I felt really proud seeing how well-regarded Thai travelers were. It took me less than 15 minutes to reach the hotel I had booked called Blue Wing Inn. The hotel was a converted single-house on a hill, with rooms available for accommodation. It cost 2,000 LRK per night (around 17 USD). I must say the owner was incredibly kind. If I wanted to go into town or to the bus station, he was happy to provide a free shuttle service with his own car. 😊
After I arrived at the hotel around 1.30PM, I quickly checked in and prepared to go outside immediately because I only had half a day to explore Nuwara Eliya town (just half a day… well, I wasted time on the train admiring the natural beauty along the way :-D). The hotel owner was kind enough to offer to drop me off at the bus terminal since the place I was going required me to catch a bus from a terminal about 2.5 kilometers away. That place was the Pedro Tea Factory. The hotel owner gave me 15 minutes to gather my belongings, and then he would take me to the bus terminal along with two French tourists. I must say, the atmosphere at the hotel at that time was amazing. Clouds drifted past the bedroom windows, and the temperature was around 25 degrees Celsius. It was like that because this town is located in the highlands.
When I arrived at the bus terminal around 2 o’clock in the afternoon, I immediately started looking for a bus to Pedro Tea Factory. However, all the buses were crowded, and the signs were in the local language, making them unreadable. Besides, my stomach started growling, so I decided to find something to eat at a nearby food stall. Seizing the opportunity, I asked the vendor for help. He pointed to the bus parked next to his stall and said it was about to depart. Without hesitation, I paid for the snacks and quickly hopped on the bus (I apologize for not remembering the bus number accurately as I was in a hurry, but if you want to go, you can ask someone in that area. There are many routes that pass by this tea factory). Once on the bus, I reached into my bag and got the fare ready. It cost 20 LKR (about 0.15 USD). After a 5-minute ride and finishing my snacks, the bus began to move. But let me tell you beforehand, the atmosphere at the bus terminal was chaotic. Buses coming and going, people bustling around. However, as soon as the bus pulled out, the scene changed completely. It was calm and peaceful. The entire town seemed to be concentrated in that one spot. 😉
In front of Nuwara Eliya Bus Station
Interior of the bus
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After a 20-minute ride, I arrived at the entrance of the tea factory (actually, the tea factory was only 9 kilometers away from the town, but the road was narrow, and there were frequent stops for passengers). It was around 3PM when I walked straight in. As soon as I reached the entrance, a guide pointed me in the right direction and informed me that tourists were welcome to explore inside. Following the signs, I ventured deep into the factory, where I found the tourist reception area and a gallery showcasing tea products. There was also a ticket counter for visitors to purchase admission tickets, priced at 200 LKR (approximately 1.70 USD). The next factory tour was scheduled in 20 minutes. In the meantime, I had the opportunity to wander around, browse and purchase tea products from the factory, or simply sit down and savor the atmosphere. The tea tasting was complimentary for visitors. Let me tell you, the ambiance here was absolutely fantastic. The tea gallery extended into the lush green tea plantations, nestled among the hills. It was a sight that refreshed my eyes, mind, and body, as if I were inhaling the pure essence of nature itself. It was another place where I felt I could take a deep breath, fill my lungs with the crisp, invigorating air, and let go of all the worries, while truly exhaling.
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A cup of Ceylon tea with very original place. It’s such a fabulous moment !
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After fully immersing myself in the enchanting ambiance, it was time to explore the tea factory. The tour guide provided a detailed explanation of the various stages of tea production in English, starting from plucking the tea leaves and going through processes such as sorting, fermenting, rolling, and roasting to create different types of tea. Each type, such as green tea, black tea, oolong tea, and white tea, had its unique production methods. However, they all shared the same tea cultivar, “Ceylon Tea.” This cultivar symbolized the prosperity of the tea industry. The level of refinement during the rolling process determined the different types of tea produced. Unfortunately, photography was strictly prohibited inside the factory due to the secrecy of the production process. Therefore, there were no pictures to showcase the internal operations. Only external images were available, showcasing the fresh tea leaves gathered for the production process.
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The visit to the tea factory concluded after approximately 40 minutes. It was around 4PM in the afternoon by then. It was time for me to bid farewell to the tea factory and head back into the city towards my next destination, the “Gregory Lake“. This beautiful lake was located in the heart of the city, not far from the hotel where I was staying.
Gregory Lake was constructed during the time when Sri Lanka was under British rule, under the orders of Sir William Gregory in 1873. Today, it serves as a tranquil retreat for the city dwellers. The surrounding area of Gregory Lake has been transformed into a public park where people can engage in various activities. Moreover, the water from the lake is also utilized to generate electricity. During the British colonial era, Gregory Lake served as a hub for water sports and recreational activities.
After I took the bus back to the town from Pedro Tea Factory, I walked straight to the nearby lake, which was less than a kilometer away. Nuwara Eliya is a small and uncomplicated town, perfect for leisurely strolls. However, due to its high altitude and thin air, it can be a bit tiring, so it’s advisable not to rush and to breathe slowly. The atmosphere around the lake was incredibly serene. The town isn’t crowded, and the cool weather made me feel incredibly refreshed. It was the evening, and local residents were engaging in activities or taking leisurely walks with their families around the lake. The surroundings were dimly lit, creating a sense of tranquility. During that moment, time seemed to slow down significantly, allowing me to contemplate various matters and become more mindful of the beautiful things around me.
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After alternating between walking and sitting by the lakeside for a while, it was just about dusk. It was time for me to make my way back to the hotel for some rest. The hotel wasn’t far from the lake, but I still had to climb a hill, which left me a bit tired. Once I reached the hotel, I quickly took care of bathing because the nighttime air was chilly. If I waited too long, I would be too exhausted to take a shower.
The temperature at 7PM in Nuwara Eliya (17th June 2016)
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Today was another day where I felt tired but content, as I had encountered new things in life. Venturing into foreign lands allowed me to see, learn, and experience unique atmospheres that words cannot fully describe. It added to my life experiences and gave me time to reflect on various matters, thus empowering me to return to my duties with renewed vigor. Tonight, I slept soundly, both due to exhaustion and the pleasant coolness in the air. When I woke up, I felt refreshed like never before. 🤗
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Written By : SHIPY SIWARIT TIASUWATTISETH
Shipy-Ship 