Today, I woke up around 7.30AM. After that, I took a shower and got dressed, making sure my bag was packed and ready to check out of this hotel. That’s because I would spend the night in a new sleeping arrangement, which was “on the train.” You see, today I had planned to take an overnight train to St. Petersburg for the next leg of my journey. The reason I chose a sleeper train (or overnight train) was because I wanted to save on hotel costs. Plus, I could sleep on the train and wake up ready to explore in the morning. Some might argue that the flight from Moscow to St. Petersburg is cheaper than the cost of a sleeper train (train fare is around 45-55 USD per trip, while flight prices can be as low as 35 USD per trip during promotional periods). It’s also faster. However, if I had chosen the flight, there would be additional expenses, such as the Aeroexpress train fare to the airport, which is about 7 USD, an extra night’s hotel stay costing around 20 USD, and the cost of transportation from the St. Petersburg airport to the city, which is approximately 5 USD. Overall, it would have been more expensive. Backpacking is all about being cost-conscious, and taking the Russian train is definitely “recommended!” It has a charm of its own.

After taking care of personal matters, checking out, and bidding goodbye to the lovely receptionist, I had a full day ahead of me until the train departure at 10.30PM to explore various tourist attractions in Moscow according to my plan. However, for those who have large bags and find it inconvenient to carry them while sightseeing, it’s possible to leave the bags at the hotel and retrieve them later in the evening. Alternatively, if the hotel doesn’t offer storage services, I recommend depositing the bags at the underground level of Leningradsky Railway Station (Ленинградский). This railway station serves long-distance trains crossing the city, including the one I will be taking tonight to St. Petersburg. The station is located next to the Yaroslavsky Railway Station, where I arrived from Sergiev Posad yesterday. To reach the cloakroom, I followed the same route, descending at Komsomolskaya Metro Station and then heading to the underground level as indicated by signs that read “Cloak Room.” There, I found a room with plenty of lockers, big enough to accommodate large rolling bags comfortably. I approached one of the staff members to rent a locker, and the deposit rate was 300 rubles (approximately 6 USD) for 24 hours. After making the payment, I received a key card with the locker number and proceeded to the designated locker, where I placed my bag and closed the door. I then used the key card to lock the locker by inserting it into the corresponding slot. When I needed to open the locker, I simply used the key card in the same manner. However, it’s important to double-check before locking the locker, as once locked, the key card can only be used once. If I wanted to lock it again, I would have to pay for a new service and keep the key card with me at all times.

I started by exploring the important landmarks around Red Square. I took the metro and got off at Okhotny Ryad Station (Охотный ряд), Line 1 (Red Line). As I exited the station, I immediately encountered the entrance to Red Square. Red Square can be considered the heart of Moscow, as it is where the city center is located (the kilometer zero is marked in Red Square). The word “red” does not refer to the color red of communism but signifies beauty in the old Russian language (красный). Therefore, Red Square symbolizes the square of beauty. This area of Red Square has witnessed numerous historical events and eras, dating back to the time of Russian tsars, the flourishing of the Soviet Union, and up to the present-day Russian Federation. Red Square has been used for various activities, including religious, political, and military purposes. Today, Red Square is the most important and iconic tourist destination in Russia. It attracts visitors from around the world every day because of its significance as a religious, political, and cultural hub. Famous landmarks such as Lenin’s Mausoleum, St. Basil’s Cathedral, the Kremlin, GUM Department Store, and more make Red Square a “must-visit” place for anyone traveling to Russia. Furthermore, Red Square was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1990, adding to its prestige.

The map of Red Square

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The first place I visited was the Lenin Mausoleum, located in the center of Red Square. I could easily spot the mausoleum with its rectangular shape adorned with red granite. Inside, it housed the glass sarcophagus containing the body of Vladimir Lenin, the former revolutionary leader and president of Russia, who is revered by the entire nation. Throughout history, people from all over Russia have lined up daily to pay their respects to Lenin’s remains, as the mausoleum is open for public viewing. Surrounding the mausoleum, there are also graves of other significant figures and heroes of Russia, creating a solemn atmosphere along the walkway.

The Lenin Mausoleum is open for free visits, but the visiting days and hours are quite limited. It is only open from 10AM to 1PM, and it is closed for morning visits on Mondays and Fridays. That’s why I chose to visit here before exploring other places in this area. If you don’t want to miss the opportunity or waste time waiting in long queues, I recommend arriving early, preferably before 9.30AM or even earlier during the tourist season from March to September, as it tends to be crowded with tourists. On weekends and holidays, there are also many tourists waiting to visit the Lenin Mausoleum. During the visit, the staff allowed tourists to enter in groups of no more than 15 to 20 people at a time, and the time inside was limited to 15 to 20 minutes per group. Inside the mausoleum, there are strict rules: no photography, no loud noises, and no inappropriate behavior.

Inside the mausoleum, there wasn’t much to see apart from the glass case containing Lenin’s body. Photography was strictly prohibited, so there were no pictures of the interior to share (there were soldiers standing guard, indicating the significance they placed on this place). I spent about 15 minutes inside the mausoleum and then made my way outside. The surrounding area of the Kremlin’s Red Square, adjacent to the mausoleum, had beautiful spots for taking pictures. From there, I could also catch a glimpse of the Saint Basil’s Cathedral (with its iconic onion domes) and the GUM Department Store, all offering picturesque views. I could truly immerse myself in this area and make the most of my time there.

Outside of Lenin Mausoleum

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After being filled with awe at the Lenin Mausoleum, I decided to postpone my visit to the Saint Basil’s Cathedral and the GUM Department Store. Why, you may ask? Well, it was still daytime, and I wanted to wait until after dusk when the sky turned dark to revisit these places. The view in this area at nighttime was breathtaking, like a mythical realm from a dream that couldn’t be compared to anything real. So, I spent my daytime exploring every nook and cranny inside the Kremlin’s walls, making sure not to miss a thing, without any delays.

I made my way to the Kremlin by walking back to the metro station where I entered. From there, I strolled along the Kremlin wall for about 400 meters until I reached a glass office building. It was the ticket office for entry to the Kremlin. On the way, I passed by the Okhotny Ryad Department Store, which shared its name with the metro station and was located directly across from it. This department store had an interesting feature—it didn’t tower high into the sky but rather extended deep underground. It had a total of four floors (G, -1, -2, and -3). So, from the outside, it looked like a small building. On the -3 floor, there were several fast-food restaurants, perfect for a quick bite while exploring the Red Square area, especially for backpackers like me.

But wait! While walking, I noticed people gathering and looking at something. My curiosity got the best of me, so I went over to see what they were observing. It turns out that the guards in front of the Kremlin were changing shifts at that very moment. This was no ordinary shift change, mind you. They had a unique ceremony and process that is unparalleled in the world. I felt incredibly lucky to witness such a special and extraordinary moment. Without wasting any time, I quickly grabbed my phone and started recording a video, trying to capture the indescribable scene. Words alone cannot do justice to the sight I saw. So, I suggest clicking to watch this video and experiencing it for yourself.

The guard change ceremony in front of Klemlin

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After experiencing the incredible spectacle of the changing of the guards in front of the Kremlin, I hurriedly dashed to purchase a ticket to enter the Kremlin itself, wanting to make the most of my time. The Kremlin opens its doors to tourists every day (except Thursdays) from 10AM to 6PM. The entrance fee was 500 rubles (approximately 10 USD) per person. The magnificent Kremlin was constructed between 1837 and 1849 by the order of Tsar Nicholas I and designed by the Italian architect Konstantin Thon. It is situated on a hill along the banks of the Moskva River. Originally, it served as the residence of the Tsars of Moscow and later became the political center of the Russian Empire. The Kremlin’s imposing walls stretch 65 meters high and encompass a total length of 3 kilometers. Within its boundaries, there are numerous structures, including palaces, cathedrals, museums, domes, towers, fortifications, and armories. Today, the Kremlin serves as a major tourist attraction, welcoming visitors from around the world to witness the grandeur and magnificence of Russia’s imperial past. It has rightfully earned its reputation as a world wonder.

The admission ticket to Klemlin

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Once I had my ticket, I walked along the path towards the entrance of the palace complex, and as I passed through the gate, my eyes were captivated once again by its sheer grandeur. Each location within the complex was equally stunning, making it difficult to decide where to go first. I took a moment to compose myself and carefully considered which sights to visit and photograph. Eventually, I chose to enter the Annunciation Cathedral, a magnificent structure that housed ancient artifacts dating back to the time when Russia had kings. The majority of these artifacts consisted of utensils used in the palace, artworks, weapons, and armor. Each piece held such historical significance that their worth was immeasurable. After leaving the Annunciation Cathedral, I immediately made my way to the Assumption Cathedral, eager not to waste any time. Inside, I discovered a collection of ancient artifacts that told the remarkable history of Russia, much like the Annunciation Cathedral. To be honest, it was challenging to distinguish between the two, and I often had to rely on the informative labels attached to each artifact to understand their time period and significance (thankfully, the labels were in English).

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Afterward, I stepped out and strolled around the magnificent grounds of the Kremlin, circling along the backside of the complex. Due to the elevated position of the Kremlin, the view of the Moscow River flowing through the heart of the city was absolutely breathtaking from one particular angle. However, the true highlight of the Kremlin wasn’t the scenic view. Though it was undeniably stunning, there was something more significant that everyone had to witness and experience: the massive cannons and the Tsar Bell, symbolizing the might and power of Russia. As I stood there, capturing photos of the colossal cannons and the Tsar Bell, I could sense the immense strength and warrior spirit that permeated the air. It was an overwhelming embodiment of power and authority. You truly have to experience it firsthand to grasp its enormity.

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The Tsar’s Bell

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The Tsar’s Cannon

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I spent about two hours exploring the surrounding area of the Kremlin until I realized I had forgotten to eat and hunger struck. It was almost 2PM when I was making my way out and stumbled upon the Okhotny Ryad mall, which I had passed before entering the Kremlin. And then it hit me, an idea sparked within me—I would attempt to eat at KFC in every country I visited. I had already tasted KFC in several countries, and the flavors varied from place to place. But here I was in Russia, and I hadn’t given it a try yet. So, for the sake of completeness and personal satisfaction (don’t ask why), I decided to “organize” a little feast to put my mind at ease. I ventured inside and discovered that the KFC was located on the -3rd floor, the deepest underground level. I placed my order eagerly, craving to satisfy my hunger. Overall, the taste was similar to the KFC back home, although the seasoning was slightly less spicy and salty. Nonetheless, it met the standard expectations of fast food. This meal cost me around 250 rubles (approximately 4 USD).

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After satisfying my hunger, I decided to take a brief rest in the Red Square before returning for another visit in the evening. During this time, I had already planned ahead to visit the Summer Palace and Tsaritsyno Park. Originally, the land belonged to Tsaritsa Irina, the wife of Tsar Boris Godunov, and it had been part of the royal estate since the 16th century. In 1775, Catherine the Great acquired the expansive and beautiful land after being enchanted by its charm. Then, in 1776, she assigned the architect Vasily Bazhenov to construct a palace on the grounds for summer retreats. It took Bazhenov nine years, until 1785, to almost complete the palace. However, Tsaritsa Catherine was dissatisfied with the narrow and dark rooms, deeming the palace unworthy of her presence. Consequently, she replaced Bazhenov with a new architect named Matvey Kazakov, who immediately demolished and rebuilt the entire structure. Kazakov dedicated ten years to the reconstruction, completing it in 1795, just before the demise of Tsaritsa Catherine. Subsequently, the palace was left abandoned for over 200 years until it underwent restoration and renovation from 2005 to 2007. Today, it stands as a public park and museum, welcoming tourists and locals alike to relax and explore its grandeur.

I traveled to Tsaritsyno Palace using the metro. From the Red Square, I chose to take Line 2 (the green line) for 8 stations until I reached Tsaritsino Station (Царицыно). Exiting the train, I walked through the railway underpass and found myself facing a wall and the entrance to Tsaritsyno Park. Stepping inside the park’s gates, I was greeted by the vast expanse of the landscape, featuring a grand square, a beautiful pond, bridges, and pathways that instantly left me in awe. Furthermore, on that day, light snow had fallen, creating a delicate white cover over the grassy fields and pathways, enhancing the romantic atmosphere. It was a moment that made me feel like I was in a dream. And if, at that very moment, I had been listening to slow, romantic songs like “Homeless Heart” by Bryan Rice or “I Knew I Loved You” by Savage Garden, it would have heightened the sensation even more. It felt as though someone should have been there, holding my hand, walking beside me in true melodramatic fashion. (Oh, the romanticism of traveling alone. T_T)

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Let’s continue our travel story before we get too carried away. The Tsaritsyno Palace and Park can be divided into two main sections based on my understanding from visiting. First, there’s the park area, which is open to the public for leisurely walks, photography, and family relaxation. This section is free to enter. The second part is the original palace, which has been transformed into a museum showcasing exquisite golden utensils, household items, and artwork of Catherine the Great. The designs are so luxurious and beautiful that their value is beyond estimation. To enter the palace, I had to purchase a ticket for 350 rubles (approximately 7 USD). It was open every day from 11AM to 6PM (except on Mondays), and on weekends, it extended its visiting hours until 8PM.

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As I arrived at the Tsaritsyno Palace and Park around 3 o’clock in the afternoon, I realized that I had just about an hour and a half before the sky began to darken (I visited during the early winter, so it got dark quite early, around 4 PM). I decided to spend the first hour exploring the park, immersing myself in the romantic atmosphere of its beautiful surroundings, with a light dusting of snow. The Tsaritsyno Park was vast and expansive, and I can honestly say that in just one hour, I could hardly explore it all. The key point is that it was incredibly stunning, and I wanted to capture every angle in photos. So, I ended up spending more time taking pictures than actually moving around. The most beautiful spot (in my eyes, at least) was the bridge over the water pond inside the park. It had a serene ambiance, especially during the snowy evening, and it truly enchanted me.

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After the sky started to darken (although the museum was still open), I changed the atmosphere and shifted from exploring the beautiful garden to admiring another form of beauty inside the palace. The palace, which had been transformed into a museum, was divided into two sections. The central building between the two sections served as an office and ticket counter, where a single ticket allowed access to both the museum and the palace. I had a wonderfully peaceful experience inside the museum because it was a regular weekday (Tuesday) and it was in the evening. There were no more than 10 people, including myself, inside at that time. I took my time to appreciate the beauty of the ancient artifacts and the luxurious household items used in the palace, each one exquisitely adorned (even spoons and bowls were embellished with gold tones, quite extravagant if you think about it). It truly reflected the status and honor of the queen herself, Catherine the Great. It’s safe to say that the Russian Empire was prosperous in its heyday.

Tsaritsyno Palace, which was transformed into a museum, is situated on the highest hill of this area

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The ticket office

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The admission ticket : 350 Ruble

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I spent about an hour in Tsaritsyno Palace, and when I looked out the window, I noticed that it was getting dark, indicating the appropriate time (I was there for leisure, not for work). Around 5.30PM, it was time to fulfill my appointment that I had set for myself in the morning. That meant returning to capture the atmosphere of the Red Square at dusk, illuminated by vibrant colors. I took the metro back to the original location before heading to Tsaritsyno Palace, and in less than half an hour, I arrived at the Red Square right on schedule. It was hard to believe that the Red Square is more crowded during the evening than during the day. This clearly indicated the allure of this expansive square in the heart of Moscow, especially when the sun sets.

Without delay, I walked into the heart of the Red Square to find beautiful angles and capture the breathtaking atmosphere. I started with the central area, where I could see the majestic St. Basil’s Cathedral. If I didn’t capture this view, no one would believe that I had been to Russia. Afterward, I followed along the Kremlin Wall, which was the same path I took to admire the Lenin Mausoleum in the morning. However, the nighttime ambiance was entirely different and had a captivating charm of its own. Another view that I couldn’t miss was the illuminated facade of the GUM department store and the promenade adorned with stunning lights. Especially the row of benches placed at intervals along the walkway, it felt like strolling through a romantic film setting. If you’re visiting as a couple, you shouldn’t miss the opportunity to hold hands and take photos in this enchanting walkway.

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I spent about an hour and a half in the heart of Red Square. Although the surrounding area wasn’t particularly spacious, just a few tens of steps took longer than I anticipated. Walking through Red Square, it was impossible not to be captivated by the stunning and grandeur scenery. Every step I took, every corner I looked at, it was all so breathtaking that I didn’t want to miss a single shot. As the clock approached 7.30PM, it was time for me to make my way to the train station to board the overnight train to St. Petersburg. But my journey in Red Square wasn’t over yet. I left two things behind, knowing that I would have to come back on my last day in Moscow before flying back to Thailand. I had to visit the enchanting St. Basil’s Cathedral (That day was closed – Wednesday) and explore the bustling GUM department store. So, Red Square, my dear, we’ll meet again in three days. Don’t go anywhere just yet.

I took the metro and got off at KOMSOMOLSKAYA station (КОМСОМОЛЬСКАЯ), Line 1 (red line), to go to Leningradskiy Railway Station. The metro station and the railway station were conveniently located next to each other. There were plenty of fast-food restaurants around the area, so I satisfied my hunger there. I arrived around 8.30PM and spotted a small KFC, which tempted me to go in and grab a quick meal (I didn’t mind having two fast food meals in a row; my taste buds were already excited). I wanted to save time because the train was scheduled to depart at 10.30PM. After devouring my meal, I retrieved my bag from the storage area and headed to the restroom to freshen up—washing my face, rinsing my eyes, and brushing my teeth to feel refreshed. I must say, the restroom fee here was quite expensive compared to Thailand. It cost 60 rubles, approximately 1 USD, just to use the facilities. However, if you had a train ticket to show, the entry was free. So, for those who purchased their train tickets online in advance, remember to bring it with you to show and enjoy free access to the restroom.

Leningradskiy Railway Station

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One issue I encountered while at the train station was that “All the announcements and train schedule show were only in Russian!!” The only things I could understand were the departure time and the train number, which I could somewhat guess. So, I made sure to pay close attention to the departure time and train number. About 15 minutes before the train departure, I went to wait at the platform because the trains here left on time. Once I arrived at the platform, I had to check the sign to find the door for my carriage. I handed my passport to the staff for them to input the information into their smartphone. It wasn’t necessary to show the printed ticket. After that, I went to find my sleeping berth in the train. But be careful, make sure to get into the right carriage, or else you might get chased away later. There were pillows and blankets provided on the train, but no food (I booked a second-class or “coupe” berth). Each compartment had two sockets for charging phones, but don’t forget to bring an adapter because Russian plugs are different from another country. Today, I shared the compartment with two middle-aged Russian men. There were four beds in the compartment, but there were only three passengers (including myself). Once the train started moving, the two gentlemen quickly took out their vodka bottles, had a few shots, drank some water, and immediately fell asleep. I wondered if I would have trouble falling asleep, so I prepared myself accordingly. As for me, I saw the two men sleeping and didn’t want to be left behind. I turned off the light, wished them a good night, and joined them in a state of exhaustion, needing to gather strength for tomorrow’s adventures. See you tomorrow, Saint Petersburg ! 🙂

The train schedule board at Leningradskiy Station (Only in Russian)

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The night train to St.Petersburg – It had 2 decks

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The atmosphere of the sleeping berth and the interior of the second-class train compartment, or in Russian, called “Coupe“.

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Written by :SHIPY SIWARIT TIASUWATTISETH

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